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KOVALAM
- THE BEACH PARADISE OF KERALA MUNRO
EPISODE
This happened around 1811 A.D., when the temple
was under the administration of Tranvancore Maharaja. The person
involved was a European by name Col. Munro, who was affiliating as
the Resident Divan of Travancore. During his checking of this
Temple, accounts, he laughed at the item of expenditure incurred on
Triputtu- the purificatory bath ritual conducted monthly. Deeming
the monthly blending of the metal idol was absurd, he cut out the
provision with his official pen -he scoffed at the meaningless
practice, but the Goddess chuckling to herself, as it were, decided
to make the officer bite the dust for, on the same day, the Mother
menstruated. According to Munro's ruling ceremonies - rituals were
suspended. Devout theists despaired Priests cursed their fate under
breathe. Mother then demonstrated her might. Her target, of course
was the alien. Soon the officer's wife experienced excruciating
pains due to heavy bleeding, started on the day of suspending the
centuries-old practice. And his children too took ill Attempts by
doctors could not bring relief. He consulted astrologists but learnt
to his stupefaction that it was due to his atheistic action
-stopping of resumption. Needless to prolong, there was instant
stopping of the bleeding of his wife. Children too become all right.
The penitent officer at once decided to donate a sum of Rs. 700/-
the amount spent usually for it every year from his successor even
today. Indeed a great punishment! Better atonement!! Best historic
proof!!!
Another! In the recent year;-one Tahsildar of Changannur,
pious officer, performed in an elaborate manner a 28-day-Utsaval
with pomp and splendour. During this period, the Mother had menses.
The officer with a view to completing the Utsavam as planned, turned
a blind eye to the occurrence and hushed it up using his official
powers. Could he hoodwink the omnipresent M0THER? Would she endure
this desecration? Result: His wife had profuse bleeding- Unusual and
Untimely too, Enlightened by Munro's experience, he offered special
pujas as an act of atonement. His wife got relief. So the belief
gained currency and fortified the potency of the MOTHER and respect
for age-old belief. Would any heckling `ISM' blink at this? With
what could it measure that divine sport? It is not literature to set
aside labelling it as fevered flight imagination, but pure history
recorded with distilled facts and dates at it. Scepticism or
agnosticism must remove the coloured glasses soon; for getting
better perspective for their own benefit
first.
THE AFFERMATH OF SATI'S
IMMOLATION There is another version, accounting for the bleeding of
the archamurthi in the shrine. This pouranic episode too has
received greater respectability along with acceptability with mute
submission.
According to it, when Sati immolated herself in Yogagni a the
ruthless humiliation meted out to her by none but her father Lord
Siva descended right at the Yagna Sala and put the place and people
to total destruction, that went beyond recognition. Placing the.
Corpse on his shoulders, he started Thandava Nrithya in such
frenzied fury and wild excitement that the world and people shook
and shivered to an incredible magnitude that Lord Mahavishnu
appeared on the scene and thwarted the Mahapralaya by cutting the
corpse into several pieces with his potent Sudarsan disc. The
fragments fell at several places throughout the length and breadth
of India. And each place became a much-hallowed Saktipita of
ethereal significance, universal veneration and perpetual
visitation. Among the fragments that flew and fell at different
places, Mother Sati's Yoni -reproductive organ fell here at.
Chengannur .And that accounts for the menstruation of the Principal
image -Mother Parvathi since then. Which out steps which in
credibility is not the lesson to be sought for from the two, but
unconditional total mute acceptance of the divine power, permeating
every inch -of the sacred place is the important point that alone
beckons the theists for visitation and adoration. Aren't the sports
of the Divinity mysterious?
THE
TEMPLE This sacred temple built on a vast six- acre land is deemed
one of the biggest of its kind by Kerala standards. It has a massive
prakara and a tall three,. Tiered tower over the Gateway, facing
east, and another on the west. Its architectural beauty is of high
order and detains the visitors with its beauty. Crossing the
Mahadwar, when proceeded further you see the Anakottal -elephant
shed. Next comes Kuttambalam in front of which lies the tall, brass
plated flagstaff, then Balikalpura leading to the imposing
Mukhamamtap. Finally the circular Srikoil enshrining the images of
Lord Siva in the front, facing the east and Mother Parvathi facing
west, just behind in the same garbhagriha but separated by a
passage. This is one of the distinctive features of the temple that
indeed marks it out from the rest of the temples found anywhere in
India. The roofing covered with copper plates is quite huge and
beautiful sloping steeply downwards. The outer walls, the wooden
pillars of Srikoil and the eastern mandapam are adorned with fine
wood carvings; the craftsmanship is so exquisite and impressive that
Marthanda Varma the famous builder of Sri Padmanabhaswamy temple
employed them all after visiting the temple. Their skill is superb
and the pouranic stories they carved are life-like in expressions,
style and design.
THE IMAGES The Swayambhulinga is of three feet in height and wears a
forlorn look, recalling his separation from the Sati after her
immolation in the court of Dhaksha. This linga is adorned with
Swarna Kavacha, fashioned into Ardhanariswara form. It looks
extremely beautiful and resplendent that joins the palms of the
bhaktas at a mere single sight.
The image of Parvathi called popularly Bhagawati was
originally a granite one, but it was replaced by a beautiful two and
half a feet high panchaloha vigraha. The Mother is exceedingly
beautiful with her enchanting lotus-petalled eyes and smiling
countenance. She reveals with two hands -one in Varadamudra and the
other Abhaya. Decorated with several invaluable dazzling jewels and
resplendent silks, she casts an enchantment that the bhaktas rivet
their gaze at her for long. The numerous brass lamps burning bright
heighten her loveliness to million fold and make the viewers
oblivious of this world for a while. It becomes verily an
unforgettable experience to avail the darsan of both Gouri and
Shankar in one and same Srikoil, moreover one behind the other.
There are many Upadevathas like Ganesh, Nilasiva, Sthaleesan and
Dharma sastra in different places receiving veneration. Near the
western gopuram, there is a mini-shrine for Krishna with Ganga and
Gangodhar enshrined as Upadevathas. Another visit-worthy place in
the complex is the giant peepal tree grown tall. It lies on the
right side of west Nada and it is worshipped by the victims of
Sunyam and evil spirits. There is a belief that evil spirit flees
off, no sooner than a nail is driven into the trunk of the tree.
Hence the crowds throughout. This temple like the shrine of
Guruvayur is famous for the celebration of marriages, annaprasana
etc, and they are conducted in the west Nada of the temple and here
congregate people in large numbers both for performing bhajans and
offering special pujas. A ritualistic puja called Pushpanjali is
very popular here. It is akin to archana with a difference. If it is
offered for 41 days regularly, the worshipper reaps several merits.
Many hope-lost, desperate bhaktas gained solace, and prospered well
with this Pushpanjal offerings.
ODDITY
OF CONSTRUCTION Mention must be made of certain peculiar constructional
features found in the temple, and some of them are deliberately made
with motives. The Mukha mandapam, in front of Lord Siva's Koil is
purposely built in a lower level to preventing the occupants from
having direct view of the Presiding deity. Another! The Kuttambalam
too is built right in front with the same motive of obstructing the
direct view of the Lord. This is due to unhealthy and malicious
intentions of the builder Perunthachan, the celebrated builder
deemed to be the Viswakarma of Kerala. When entrusted, with the work
of building, he arrived here by boat on the river Pampa. To his
great shock he found on the surface of water, flowers, darbha,
banana leaves etc. to such large quantity, indicating the countless
persons engaged in temple for doing pujas. During his stay, he found
the dominance of Nambudris, and there were thousands of families
thriving, depending on the temple. He purposely introduced certain
ominous designs to spell disaster on the brahmin community. The
building of Mukha Mandapam in a lower level etc. really brought
ruination and thousands of families were reduced to only 20 to 30 in
a few years. Was he really profited by such evil intentions? No.
Retribution came in the form of a sharp, big chisel which slipping
from his hand while working atop fell direct on the head of the
dearest son, who died at once. And the son as the word went round
far surpassed that Viswakarma in work and skill.
THE SANCTITY OF WEST
GOPURAM Among the other uniques the temple is deservedly famous, for
the west Nada deserves mention. On the right side of the west
Gopuram there is a hole and it has an exotic episode to narrate. It
is supposed to contain a venomous serpent inside, and one is afraid
of taking oath-inserting finger into it. If he utters lies while the
finger in the hole, the serpent bites him and instant death follows.
So one is mortally frightened to take oath at this place in this
method. Liars met with instantaneous deaths, hence the very mention
of west Nada of Chengannar strikes terror into the minds of liars.
Its origin is quite interesting-it appears once a fake Vishavaidya
from Tamil Nadu went there and boasted that none would beat him in
curing snakebites. Unfortunately a twelve-year boy, the lone
survivor renowned for Vishavaidhya heard it and reported it to his
fond mother. She was crest fallen; for it was dishonour to her own
town, and her husband, whose mantrikasati was unparalleled. In the
same night the boy had a dream and he was provided with a small pipe
by the Naga King himself with sufficient guidance to tackle the
bogus Tamilian Mantrika.
On the next morning the boy went to temple and before a huge
number of bhaktas assembled for prayer, lie loudly proclaimed
whether the Tamilian was really poison-proof and was fearless of
snakes as boasted on the previous day. The falsifier was at his wits
end, yet false prestige goaded him to keep up his statement. Then
the boy unleashed the serpent from the pipe. And lo! a fierce black
Cobra emerging from the pipe advanced towards the deceiver with
fangs dilating. Shivering all over he begged the boy to save him.
Taking pity on him, the boy bade the snake withdraw into the pipe.
It did. The Tamilian mantrika to atone the sins of his overbearing
arrogance deposited all his paraphernalia-medicines in a pit near
Kuttambalam and covered it with a stone slab before his departure
That very stone lies even today serving a better purpose. Standing
upon it, if one soulfully prays to the Lord Pannagabhushana, he will
be relieved of the effects of snakebites. The Lord always protects
the Saranarthas in all possible ways at every moment. Later the boy
made a hole in the wall of the West Gopuram and installed the pipe
into it. It is this hole used now for oath taking. The liar
accepts the truth, if he is dragged to the place for confession.
Though centuries passed by, the miracle is still in force. So the
Chengannur west Mada has become a nightmare to the bogus people, who
now prefer confession to swearing at that point in that fashion.
"Inscrutable are the ways of God", escapes the lips of any from
among the bystanders. "Curb your rising insignificance", utters a
budding godman, "Emulate that urchin" sermonises an evolving
Pravakta. This is yet another miracle that this miraculous temple is
displaying to prove the authenticity of the mightiest power,
instrumental in deciding the destiny of the insignificant, million
trillion billionth fragment of a proton that man is, before the
Himalayan in mensity that supreme Lord is. The 'ists' if open their
eyes wide to catch a full glimpse of Viswarupa of the Lord, it can
be presumed, they turn Arjuns to prostrate and circumambulate the
universes times million for the gift of clear perspective of the
Creator and the Creative Force here embedded in the images of the
Presiding deities of this matchless much-hallowed miracle temple of
Kerala.
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