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Tiruvananthapuram
HISTORICITY Although the exact date of its
construction is shrouded in mystery, the historical "evidence begins
1729 with Maharaja Marthandavarma's infinite munificence that almost
drained the state exchequer in a year or two, as a matter of fact.
His inimitable thirst for construction and renovation started even
before his accession. Soon after his accession, he applied himself
to the gigantic task of rebuilding most of the dilapidated portions.
The construction of garbha griha along with making of the Lord's
icon was given top priority. The image, using as many as 1200
salagrams, specially brought from a far moulded into a shape with a
particular kind of mortar, made of special compounds and coated with
a paste, prepared from molasses and mustard. It was indeed an ace
architectural feat unique in conception, combination and
construction. And a specimen of the exquisite piece of perfect
craftsmanship! This superb huge icon adorned with garlands and
dazzling silks with Brahma seated atop the lotus rising from the
navel affords a royal banquet to the eyes and transports the viewers
to Vaikunta Next, the imposing Ottakkal mantap lying just opposite
the Moolavirat received his magnetic touch. This 20 feet square
Mantap was built out of single gigantic granite slab. Another
colourful feather to his cap! The main Eastern gopuram work, which
was begun as back as in 1566 was taken up and completed upto the
fifth storey. Another colossal feat was the building of Sribalipura,
the awe-inspiring rectangular corridor encircling the main mandir
for which the services 1000 masons, 6000 labourers and 100 elephants
were utilised. And lo! this supreme specimen of artists superb
craftsmanship was materialised in barely 7 months. The making of
flagstaff is another superb feat that brought him undying fame, and
left him as the pole star among the builders of Kerala
temples.
THE TEMPLE This architectural piece of superb craftsmanship, occupying a
spacious 7-acre-land lies on an elevated part of the city and is
visible to the visitors from miles afar. Surrounded by massive
prakaras with a tall 100 feet high 7-storeyed tower of pyramidal
shape, it faces the east, and has a flight of broad stone steps to
reach the sannidhi. The elaborately and intricately sculptured
pouranic figures adorning the tower are a treat to the connoisseurs
and detain them for hours, whereas the asthikas bow to them seeing
living gods in them. Crossing the portal, we enter the broad open
oblong corridor, supported by 324 pillars, called the walk of the
God's procession. The pillars and the ceiling are fittingly
beautified with excellent sculptures. The grand 80-foot-high
circular golden flagstaff lying at the end of this covered walk is
adorned with the image of Garuda, the Lord's Vehicle. Kulasekhara
Mantap bearing the exquisite sculptures lies to its south. Then
comes the two-storied rectangular inner shrine richly ornamented
with gables -the characteristic feature of the Kerala architecture.
Its outer walls are beautified with mural painting, depicting many
legendary tales. There are several minishrines dedicated to adorable
gods and goddesses, like Krishna, Sastha, Siva, Narasimha, Vyasa,
Kshetrapala, Rama, Lakshman, and Sita etc. Lord Ganesh's icon with
its prominent potbelly, matching his diminutive stout limbs attracts
everyone most. The sculptors' artistry in the making of Vishnu image
with four hands and Lakshmi sitting under the canopy of tree peeps
at beholders and bends heads in homage to the Lord and the makers
too. For this and more, credit goes to the illustrious Maharaja
Marthandavarma, whose devotion is second to none. To be true,
history has not so far produced another specimen king of Kerala to
stand beside or behind him. He is a unique gem of purest ray screne,
dazzling among the royal patrons of art and architecture. The cause
of his matchless passion for construction and faith in God, and love
of fellowmen deserves reverent study.
MARTHANDA VARMA'S PATRONAGE
He was, as name suggests a dauntless warrior of peerless
military prowess. Soon after coronation, he launched a large-scale
military campaign for territorial expansion, particularly against
the impudent roaring local petty lions and annexed with grace and
eases every territory, and left them as toothless wild cats.
Expansion, as desired was materialised and his kingdom swelled upto
Cochin. Soon after the digvijaya yatra, he embarked upon the Dharma
Prachara yatra on a spectangular level like that of immortal Ashoka
Mourya, and, in an exemplary manner at it. He construed and
inferred, rightly too, that power, wealth, knowledge come to art
individual as a reward, when he accepts to be a trustee of God's
wealth and moreover the gifts of God find justification, leading to
the culmination of reaping a bumper harvest of bliss. Illumined
thus, he came to momentous decision of dedicating his whole kingdom
to his family deity Sri Ananthapadmanabhaswamy. The unrest surfacing
in certain quarters of the conquered kingdom, adding uneasiness to
his perturbed conscience, the aftermath of the war, hastened him to
the holy presence of the presiding deity to placing his sceptre and
crown at the feet of the Lord as a symbol surrendering all his
possessions and rights by kingdom. As a mark of total, unconditional
surrender, he placed his sword on the steps of the sanctum sanctorum
and declared that he would thenceforward act as the Lord's vassal,
and be called Padmanabhadasa only. Hasn’t he proved himself the
modern version of Bharat? And ordained that his successors too would
act likewise. This verily perched him higher than Bharat to speak
the truth. What a decision! How unique is his renunciation!! Has any
nation followed that suit!!! Will future produce such another!!!!
Doubtful! At once he made conch as the emblem of the state and used
for badges and coins. This unparalleled decision was whole-heartedly
accepted in the royal household,-and later it became a tradition and
was accepted by the succeeding kings with mute submission. And some
of the members of the royal family never took food until and unless
worshipping the Lord at the shrine. So infinite and implicit was the
faith that the princely members turned model princes to the millions
of princes. That miraculous change in this out-looks manifested
itself in several ways -he began the construction at work of the
temple on such grand scale that it emerged soon as a marvellous
shrine attracting global attention. To be precise, he glorified it,
and it divinised him in turn. His humanism, and patronage of arts
too are of unearthly in charter and content.
FESTIVALS The temple celebrates two annual festivals on a grand scale
in such an impressive way that the whole Vaishnavite community
living all over India participates lustily, besides common folk in
lakhs. Each is a 10-day festival -one falling in the month of
Meenam, corresponding to. March -April, and the other in the month
of Tula i.e. October month. Both begin with Kodiyatram -flag
-hoisting ceremony and end with huge processions of deities,
participated by lacks of people, including the Maharaja and his
family members with a zeal infinite and pomp, unusual. During these
festivals, the Veetta-hunting and arattu-immersing precession are of
great significance. They are celebrated in accordance with sastric
injunctions. Their symbolical meaning is deep and embodies universal
truths -any spectacle becomes perfect and breathes life, if only the
actors and spectators are brought together and participate with
equal zeal. And by harmonious unification of the mover and the
onlooker, the Spectacle reaches perfection - comes to a full
circle. This art principle is achieved during these festivals, when
the Maharaja taking the role of the protector kills the demon
standing for evil. On the ninth day of the festival, a big
make-believe setting for the mock-hunt, befitting the pageant is
erected in front of the Sundaravilasam palace fort at Trivandrum,
where the climax of the myth is enacted. The demon is shot at by the
Maharaja with an arrow. The light and sound effects ably produced
make the episode real and the spectators enjoy it to the maximum.
The procession of the deities though reaches the temple at the end,
the deities are not: be taken to their seats without the
purificatory bath. Does not God, when descend to the sinful world
get defiled? As the Utsavamurthis suffered pollution thus, they
should be purified before resuming their original position. Hence
the ceremonial bath on the tenth day. The purificatory ritual is
performed to the images of Sri Padmanabha, Krishna and Narasimha at
Sankhamukhan situated at the edge of the Arabian sea. This is
another fascinating sight for the theists to enjoy the colourful
spectacle of the procession of deities, escorted by the royal
family, and lacs of bhaktas going along the 5 Km long road. These
two though not come near the Dasara celebrations at Mysore in pomp
and splendour; they exceed it in the observance of traditions. The
priests attach supreme significance to every item of the rites
observed from start to finish. They appear conservative in several
of their practices, but seen through the eyes of traditional
purists, they are justified. Modernity is totally banished from the
precincts of the holy temple. The entire atmosphere starts ii
breathing antiquity and orthodoxy from the very moment opening of,
temple doors to the closing. Certainly, modernity feels irked at
certain traditions like admission of males with dhoties and bare
chest, yet the antiquity shirks not its rigidity, nor thinks of
introducing any flexibility, even in the case of the highest ruling
authority, if he visits for darsan. As nothing is hate-worthy in the
general scheme of creation, respecting the traditions alone paves
the way for harmonious kinship and exemplary bliss between the
visitors and the authorities. Endure it! And get emancipated!!
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